November 3, 2002, 10:23 pm 30.45" Hg, 74.0 F

Today was a long day.

Last night as I wrote, sitting on deck, I heard snuffling sounds. I looked alongside, and in a small pool of slight spilling from a ship's window I saw two big sea lions playing in the water - I had been hearing them.

We woke up somewhat early (for me) at about seven. A nice big breakfast and by nine we were embarking on zodiacs to take a short hike of 2 miles on Espanola Island. This island is unique in that it is the only one in this archipelago which has red marine igusnas, or which we saw many.



Some red marine iguanas

We embarked in groups of 10-15 and took our hikes as those groups. The going was slow as we often stopped to look at the wildlife. And there certainly was a lot to look at! We saw myriads of blue footed boobies - a gull-like bird, nasca boobies, a few albatrosses, some frigate birds, a few Galapagos hawks, some more Darwin's finches, and even an albatros chick - half downy brown and half feathered.



Some blue footed boobies


A Galapagos hawk

We also saw many Galapagos sea lions - similar to their California brethren although smaller. They sound just like the ones which bark at night at Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. We did see several sea lion pups and there were very cute.

See the sea lion pup to the left of my right hand? It looks like a small brown boulder

We saw marine iguanas, the ones with red, piled atop each other for warmth. We saw blue footed boobies engaged in mnating rituals - whistling (male), honking (female), and dancing and nest building. Lava iguanas were constantly underoot - little ones with red throats which performed push-ups to scare us away.
Seeing these marine iguans it is easy to see how they would be used as stand-in dinosaurs in 50's films.

On the way out on the trail Ian Fletcher (not Christian), an English gentleman on our trip, spotted a nine inch centipede: reddish black with dark red legs. A very convincing argument not to camp on the Galapagos Islands (although one can evidently obtain a permit for it).


Our video chronicler carrying the tools of his trade



Returning to the M.S.Polaris


November 4, 2002