November 2, 2002, 10 pm 30.43" Hg 74.5 deg F

Today we flew in an old 727 to the island of Baltra, the sole island in the Galapagos archipelago which is not a part of the national park; it is owned by the Ecuadoran military. While waiting for our shuttle bus to the airport at the Hilton Colon I met a very decent chap by name of Tracy Shea. He used to work for CNN in New York and has travelled all over the world as a broadcast journalist. At the point where he spent a majority of his time at a desk in New York he quit to start his own business. Now he takes contracts with folks like Lindblad Expeditions - he is along to film, edit, and replicate a short documentary video of our trip to the Galapagos. He will do this for four consecutive trips. He seems quite interesting, and has a two bedroom apartment in Nob Hill in San Francisco while he lives in New York. Lucky dog.

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First view of the island of Baltra
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The 727 we flew in on

After boarding the M.S.Polaris we had a buffet lunch and some introductory talks complete with lifeboat drill.
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Myself and my cabin mate Andy Jaros
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Our cabin on the Polaris

Then at four o'clock we departed for a two hour zodiac ride/tour around Cerro Dragon to try and spot some land iguanas. We only saw one at a distance from our zodiac (six zodiacs were embarked to carry 66 passengers).
gal1_02.jpg Riding in a zodiac
gal1_03.jpg The Polaris is seen in the background

However, we did see several other species of wildlife. Some of the birds are too commonplace looking to mention despite their possible historical significance as keystones in supporting Darwin's expostulation of a theory of evolution. We also saw many blue footed boobies (boobies), surely the harbingers of hordes to come, several magnificent frigate birds, and lava heron. Most exciting however, was spotting white tipped reef sharks, black tipped sharks, sea lions (Galapagos sea lions, which are related to California sea lions albeit smaller), and especially exciting green sea turtles. Our zodiac driver Super "G" (Giovanni) spotted many in concert with our naturalist.
Oh, and a few diamond (spotted?) eagle rays. If I have the opportunity to see sea turtles while SCUBA diviing it will be truly awesome. The zodiacs appear to be just the same as the ones I saw as a child in those Jaques Cousteau television specials; ours are even made in France.
A zodiac:


Each can hold about 16 plus two crew.

Our driver often ran the zodiac backwards - I surmise that in thise fashion he could see the shallowness of the water to see if he were in danger of hitting the propellor. I never thought of driving them in this fashion... but it is obviously useful.

The area we visited is isolated by a channel from the main part of San Cristobal island. The conservationists have relocated land iguanas there for refuge from feral dogs. The dogs started to swim the channel so they put a fence in the channel. When grown they return some iguanas to the main part of the island for they are large enough to resist wild dogs.

Of course I note that the eggs and young that these repatriates produce will fall victim to feral dogs, so a long term strategy for survival of the iguanas must include some ideas for extermination of the dogs. I don't think the ASPCA would be happy...

One way in which I very much envy Charles Darwin and his companions is that their ship was presumably quite quiet. As I sit here on the afterdeck of the Polaris I am assaulted by the constant dull roar of machinery. Presumably cooling units which keep the interior of the ship cool - a blessing I would not forgo. Nor the luxury of refrigerated (unspoiled!) meat and vegetables.

November 3, 2002, 10:23 pm